Fragrance families classify scents by their dominant olfactory characteristics and structural accords, helping fragrance lovers navigate profiles, notes, and seasonal pairings.
1. Floral
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Character: Romantic, airy, velvety, and multifaceted—ranging from clean and dewy to opulent and narcotic.
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Key Notes: Rose, Jasmine, Tuberose, Ylang-Ylang, Lily of the Valley, Iris, Peony.
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Structure: Can be structured as a Soliflore (focusing on a single flower) or a Floral Bouquet (a rich blend of multiple white and red blooms).
2. Amber (Formerly Oriental)
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Character: Warm, resinous, spicy, sensual, and heavy-bodied with exceptional longevity and projection.
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Key Notes: Amber, Vanilla, Tonka Bean, Benzoin, Frankincense, Labdanum, Myrrh, Cinnamon.
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Structure: Rich base notes dominate the drydown, often balanced by spiced or floral top layers (florientals).
3. Woody
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Character: Earthy, grounded, smoky, dry, or creamy. Gives structural backbone and depth to fragrance compositions.
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Key Notes: Sandalwood, Cedarwood, Vetiver, Patchouli, Oud (Agarwood), Guaiac Wood, Cypriol.
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Structure: Spans from dry and smoky (cedar/birch) to creamy and milky (sandalwood) and earthy/mossy roots (vetiver).
4. Fougère (Fern-Like)
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Character: Fresh, barbershop-clean, herbal, and aromatic with a warm, mossy-woody base. Named after Houbigant’s 1882 classic Fougère Royale.
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Key Notes: Lavender, Coumarin (Tonka), Oakmoss, Geranium, Bergamot, Clary Sage.
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Structure: Defined by the classic contrast between sharp herbaceous lavender up top and a warm, powdery coumarin/moss base.
5. Chypre (Cyprus)
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Character: Sophisticated, contrast-heavy, moody, and aristocratic. Popularized by Coty’s 1917 Chypre.
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Key Notes: Bergamot, Oakmoss (or modern Evernyl), Patchouli, Labdanum, Cistus.
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Structure: Built on a sharp olfactory tension: sparkling citrus top notes colliding directly with an earthy, mossy, resinous base.
6. Citrus (Hesperidic)
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Character: Zesty, sparkling, invigorating, and crisp. Extremely high volatility with instant mood-lifting qualities.
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Key Notes: Bergamot, Lemon, Mandarin, Grapefruit, Neroli, Petitgrain, Blood Orange.
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Structure: Primarily forms bright opening top notes; historically the foundation of classic Eau de Cologne formulations.
7. Gourmand
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Character: Edible, decadent, comforting, and sweet, designed around olfactory notes of confections, pastries, and roasted delicacies.
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Key Notes: Caramel, Chocolate, Roasted Coffee, Honey, Cotton Candy (Ethyl Maltol), Hazelnut, Marshmallow.
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Structure: Built on modern sweet synthetic aroma molecules blended over rich amber, vanilla, or woody bases.
8. Aquatic (Marine / Ozonic)
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Character: Salty, crisp, breezy, and refreshing, evoking sea mist, waterfalls, rain, or coastal air.
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Key Notes: Calone (marine aroma molecule), Sea Salt, Seaweed/Algae, Driftwood, Mineral Accords.
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Structure: Relies on ozonic and marine synthetic molecules often paired with citrus, floral, or clean musk accords.